Author Archive

Class : Technology



Software : Arduino IDE



Equipment : Arduino UNO Board, HC-05 Bluetooth Module, Breadboard, Jumper Wires, Fan



Challenges :

  • Making proper connections from Arduino to the components.
  • Understanding the Rx and Tx connections from Bluetooth Module to Arduino.
  • Programming the code.



Approach:



To advance with our projects here in Shukhov Lab, it was necessary for us to learn how to operate and program the Arduino boards and perform basic activities. In this project I was trying to work with an Arduino and bluetooth module setup for controlling a DC Motor (A fan in this case) using a smartphone.



 

Process:

First it is required to assemble all components together and make the connections.



 



I have initially connected the bluetooth module to the breadboard and made necessary connections to the arduino board using male-male jumper cables.



 



The connection for the bluetooth module are as follows:

BLUETOOTH    –           ARDUINO

Txd  –  Rx

Rxd  –  Tx

Gnd  –  Gnd

Vcc  –  3.3V

 



Next I connected the DC powered fan to the arduino and connected it with GND for the negative terminal and PIN-8 for the positive terminal.



I chose pin 8 here because I have activated it in the code using the statement (int ledpin = 8;)



The connections to the arduino board are shown on the image below:







Finally we upload the developed code to the arduino board.



*NOTE:

  • It is very important to disconnect the Rx and Tx cables from the bluetooth module before uploading the code or it might display an error.
  • Always disconnect the arduino power source before making any wiring changes to avoid short circuit.

 

The code which I used can be found below:


char val;


int ledpin = 8;


void setup() {


pinMode(ledpin, OUTPUT);


Serial.begin(9600);


}


void loop() {


if( Serial.available() )


{


val = Serial.read();


}


if( val == ‘H’ )


{


digitalWrite(ledpin, HIGH);


} else {


digitalWrite(ledpin, LOW);


}


delay(100);


}



 

I have also downloaded an application on my phone, from which I can send signal to the Bluetooth module.



It is necessary to download this app or a similar app. You can download one from the link below:



https://apkpure.com/arduino-bluetooth-controller/com.giumig.apps.bluetoothserialmonitor/download?from=details

 



After uploading the code, I disconnected the power from arduino board connected back the Rx and Tx cables and plugged back the power source into the arduino (it can be from your notebook’s USB or via 5V power adaptor)



Next I opened my bluetooth settings in my phone and paired the device with bluetooth module HC-05.



*NOTE: 

  •  In case of password prompt, use – 1234
  •  Typing H on the bluetooth app activates signal and typing anything else switches it off.



Then open the app (arduino bluetooth controller) and select the device (HC-05) from the list of paired devices and connect with the switch or terminal modes as shown below. In my case I have used the Switch mode and set the parameters for ON button as “H” and OFF button as “X”. Otherwise you can manually use the Terminal mode.







The fan rotates on sending the signal “H” (ON) and switches off on sending signal “X” (OFF) successfully.



It is demonstrated in the video below:




 

 

Class : Technology / 3D Printing

Software : Rhinoceros, Microsoft 3D Builder, CURA

Equipment : Ultimaker 2 GO

Materials : PLA (1.75 mm)

 

Challenges  : 

  • Operating and settings of 3D Printer
  • Setting up the printing parameters in CURA

 

Approach :

We were introduced to 3D printing using the various 3D Printing devices available in our LAB and I decided to work with the Ultimaker 2 GO as it seems precise and less complicated.

Ultimaker 2 GO requires the software named “CURA” in which the 3D file (.stl in my case) is processed for loading into the machine using a standard MicroSD card.

 

Working Process :

I wanted to learn how to operate the Ultimaker 2 GO, so I downloaded a pre-modeled 3D file for an earphone case and made some modifications using Rhinoceros and exported the 3D file in .stl format.

I checked this .stl file for any errors and then loaded it into “CURA”, arranged the parts for printing and then loaded it into the Ultimaker 2 GO.

Below you can see a screenshot of the.gcode file which is ready to be sent for 3D printing

 

Parts of the model :

 

Fixing the Parts:

The core has two hollows to act as pivots where the end of the outer shells can clamp onto and then enclose the core.












Result:






Class              : Technology / Computer Controlled Cutting



Software      :  Autodesk AutoCAD, Rhinoceros, LaserWork



Materials     :  Plywood of thickness 0.30 mm





Challenges  : 

  • Operating the Laser Cutting Machine
  • Aligning CAD drawing in LaserWork
  • Detailing and spacing of Kerf-Bending
  • Re-scaling of components keeping an offset for the laser cutter to burn away





Work Process:



It is really fascinating to be  able to practically fabricate our thoughts with the technology provided at our hand.

I was really amazed when our Instructor Ivan Mitrofanov introduced us with various techniques for cutting plywood with the Laser Cutting machine and “Kerf-Bending” was a technique which actually amazed me.

There were many initial thoughts on what I could experiment with this new knowledge but then I  decided to use the principles of “Interlocking” and “Kerf-Bending” to prototype  this Collapsible Cylinder.

I have used very simple components for this project and it consists of  just “two” kinds of details which was cut  by the Laser Cutting machine. You can find these details below:





  • Interlockings:





In this picture you can see the detail (first two pieces) which is meant to interlock together (third piece) and act as movable joints.

I had to Laser Cut this detail several times as I could not anticipate how much offset I should keep for the Laser to burn off.





  • Vertical Elements :




Here you can see the Vertical Elements along with the Kerf-Pattern and bolted together with the Interlocking details.

I had had a similar problem with this detail too due to the laser’s burning offset which made the Kerf very  brittle and breaking it instead of bending.






This image shows how the combination of both the detail works when they are laid out on a plain surface, and the ends were later interconnected.






Final Outcome:





This combination of these techniques worked and thanks to the Kerf Pattern I was able to fold it into a compact form. Although it was very stiff in the beginning, it started loosening up at the interlockings and had to be glued.






Downloadables:



Here you can find the link of the DWG file which I have used for making this pattern.



https://drive.google.com/file/d/1sTYFWpRPD8o2PkLQVL96S0E1eC-gi9PK/view?usp=sharing

(DWG version attached – AutoCAD 2010)

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